Tuesday, 23 July 2013

Manning up

After chickening out on Ex Libris, Ally said I needed to get some determination again. Alongside speed and fitness, my mental psyche is definitely a big weakness in my climbing. So being back home and in Snowdonia, where I learnt to climb, it was time for some manning up! I decided to try and lead a route that intimidated me. However standing under Suicide Wall, I decided that was a bit too scary so Dave led that un!

But Left Wall, on Dinas Cromlech, is a route I have often considered. Although I was quite aware that I would probably bail on it if I tried it, just because it is so intimidating and long! I also get a bit confused by which British climbing grade I can successfully climb. My previous experience of the route involved belaying a strong friend during his 3 hour battle with the pitch. Remembering his hefty lobs off the final traverse concerned me somewhat! But the route actually went pretty well. The climbing is super fun, steady and well protected, I actually had to ration my gear! But then part way up the top crux I felt 'some' (turned out it was just one) small nuts fall off my harness. I panicked and jammed in a mediocre placement, then remembering that the previous bit was also pretty terrible, I chose to sit on it and calm down rather than fall and probably rip out both pieces... A little bit sad to blow the onsight but it's such a good route that I'm psyched to climb it again!

Dave also decided to get on a wish list route and gave Right Wall a go. It was going well and he was cruising up, but then he snapped a hold in the crux sequence. Unfortunately he ripped two bits of gear so took a good 60 foot of airtime, clipping the ledge on the way past. Good job he bounces well!

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