Showing posts with label Ice Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ice Climbing. Show all posts

Friday, 14 February 2014

Not quite an alpine route but not a bad day out!




Sometimes (quite often really...) I get scared of alpine climbing... I find my winter alpine psyche is a very fragile thing. On Wednesday, a missed top bin reservation, not being sure where the route actually started and putting in a high ski traverse above a lot of big crevasses, all took their toll on my motivation. The final straw was realising that I still haven't replaced my decrepit climbing gloves and I couldn't feel my fingers after just 5 minutes of skiing. Luckily for me, Dave was already wearing all of his spare clothing and didn't mind running away to the temptingly sunny slopes below.

Running away to the sunshine!
We then had a good old walk-pointy ski explore of the Rive Gauche ice falls. This felt slightly more adventurous than it should as we were guidebook-less and trying to remember where stuff was by memory. Turns out everyone had the same idea that day and most of the ab points had multiple sets of skis waiting for their owners. Fortunately as we finally sauntered down to the EMHM cascade the final climbing pair were just topping out so we had the ice fall to ourselves. After I pulled the ropes from our abseil I ummed and ahhed about leading the first steep pitch with only five ice screws on our rack. Then I remembered just how blunt my four ice screws were and managed to persuade Dave that he wanted to lead both of the pitches. Not that he really had much choice in the matter... Good job he's a beast and made short work of the route!

Running it out with our minimal ice climbing rack
By the time we skied down to the bottom of the Pierre a Ric I felt like I had had an alpine day out! Skiing for the first time of the season with a climbing bag is always a shock to the thighs. Although we only did a short route in the end, we skied further than we would have done if we had gone up Claire Chazal. Dave also has a report of our lovely day out here, who says you need to be scared to enjoy climbing?!

Monday, 20 January 2014

Ice is Nice

Sandra traversing the fracture line on the first pitch of the Cascade de Lillaz
Being used to Scottish snow ice I found the transition to continental water ice last winter quite hard work. My first attempt at leading over in Cogne last January wasn't exactly smooth... Climbing with blunt axes and crampons was not ideal and I fell off onto an ice screw, oops! Sharper tools and better technique have definitely made ice cragging a lot more fun this season.


Nearly at the top of the Cascade, the weather was turning distinctly Scottish! 
Sandra and I had a cheeky day trip to Cogne in Italy a couple of weeks ago and climbed the super classic Cascade de Lillaz. Whilst the ice was a bit thin and wet in places, we managed to get on the route before anyone else and had a fun morning wandering up the frozen gorge. Climbing in Cogne, feeling solid on the route and not sketching out like last time definitely made the day very satisfying.

 
Matt looking for a steeper section at La Crémerie
After work psyche running high!
The main thing that I have learnt from living in a ski town is that when there's work you need to take it. This means that the festive period with the influx of visitors to the valley is a hectic working period. Fortunately the icefalls up at La Crémerie have been in pretty good condition this year. Being a 20 minute walk from the car with easy abseil descents means they provide the perfect after (or even before) work training venue!



We've visited the crag in many different conditions this season, I'm surprised that it hasn't been destroyed totally by the recent thaw! Although it always seem to be a popular, busy venue; sometimes the conditions aren't exactly perfect. There were a few full depth ice slides off the rockface a few weeks ago and the ice on the routes can be pretty hollow with water behind or alternatively buried under a foot of snow... However I think interesting conditions like this just make the climbing more adventurous and memorable; a bit like climbing in Scotland!
Sandra on surprisingly thick ice just before Christmas
James on thinner ice this weekend.
Wintery wonderland at dusk!